Dear Most Esteemed and Knowledgeable Kitties:
We adopted a male cat a year ago who we absolutely adore. Due to financial reasons, we recently decided to move in with my in-laws. They are fine with cats–except they just bought expensive all new leather furniture for their living room. My father-in-law insisted that we declaw our cat, as he is very afraid that the furniture will be ruined. I refused because I am concerned about my cat’s quality of life, and we eventually came to a compromise: We don’t have to declaw the cat but the cat has to stay in one of two upstairs rooms at all times. I wasn’t too worried, because our apartment was pretty small already and I thought he would be used to it, but now that we’ve moved in I’m concerned that he isn’t getting enough interaction time with us. When we eat, watch movies, or do anything outside of his room he doesn’t get to see us at all. I’m starting to wonder whether it would be better to have him declawed and let him roam about the house and be with us all the time. I just want what is best for him; what is your advice? By the way, we tried soft paws; he chews them off and I’m not convinced they’d protect the furniture to my in-laws’ satisfaction even if he didn’t.
~ Mark
Thomas: Well, Mark, first let us say that we’re so grateful for your concern about your cat’s quality of life, whether the issue is declawing or isolation. We particularly commend you for not wanting to declaw your cat. And we think we’ve got some tips that will help you and your kitty!
Bella: As we’re sure you know, scratching is a natural behavior for cats. It helps kitties stretch their whole bodies, and the scent glands in their paw pads help them to mark their territory.
Tara: So, there are a couple of things you can do to not only help your cat keep his claws but eliminate the isolation of being stuck in one of two rooms.
Thomas: First of all, we don’t know if you’ve tried trimming your cat’s claws. By doing so, you’ll remove the pointiest bits, which cause the most damage.
Bella: Now, claw trimming can be a bit intimidating if you haven’t done it before, but once you (and your cat) get used to it, you should find it’s not too much of a challenge, even if you have to only do a couple of claws at a time.
Tara: This video provides a good lesson on claw trimming, and it can help you get started in the right direction.
Thomas: The next thing you’ll want to do is train your cat to use appropriate scratching surfaces.
Bella: This isn’t as hard as it sounds since, as we said, scratching is a natural behavior for cats. You just have to get the right kind of scratching accessories.
Tara: That’s right. Cats like to scratch vertically and they like to scratch horizontally!
Thomas: For horizontal scratching, we recommend corrugated cardboard scratch pads. These are easy and inexpensive to obtain, and you can find them at just about every pet store.
Bella: For vertical scratching, we recommend a rugged, heavy and tall scratching post.
Tara: Most of the little carpeted ones at pet stores are totally inadequate for kitty scratching needs. First of all, you don’t want to train your cat to scratch on carpet! And secondly, your cat won’t want to scratch on it if his full weight makes the post topple over.
Thomas: Once upon a time, we had one of these Purrfect Scratcher posts. They are purrfect because they’re nice and tall and they’re covered with sisal rope, which is a wonderful, wonderful surface to dig your claws into!
Bella: Mama, can we have one again?
Mama: Yes, darlings, you can. I’ve been meaning to get you one for some time!
Bella: Thank you, Mama!
Tara: You can get a cat interested in scratching a post by first drawing his attention to it …
Thomas: Scratching your fingernails on the post can be a really tempting sound.
Bella: And if your cat likes catnip, rub the post with some of that, too.
Tara: Once your cat is using the scratching post regularly, you can try putting the post by one of the pieces of leather furniture. The idea here is that you’re providing a “yes” that’s even better than the “no” of leather furniture.
Thomas: Like our hero Jackson Galaxy says, “For every no, provide a yes.”
Bella: You’ll probably want to make sure your cat is supervised while he’s in the room with the furniture and the scratch post, at least until you know he’s using the scratch post consistently.
Thomas: Another thing you’ll want to do is provide your cat with surfaces that are his. A nice, tall cat tree can be a great place for a kitty to lounge, and some of them even have sisal poles for scratching as part of their structure.
Bella: Our kitty tree has sisal posts, and I think they’re great to grip on for when I want to climb to the top shelf.
Mama: As a bonus, they do help Bella keep her claws in good shape. The one I bought was from Armarkat, which makes reasonably priced and pretty durable cat trees. It’s the second Armarkat tree I’ve had, and both of them have worked very well. (The first one I had, I donated to a cat shelter when we moved across the country.)
Tara: Mama, I need my claws trimmed.
Mama: I know, sweetheart. I’ve got scratches all over me from when you were sitting in my lap last night!
Thomas: So, Mark, if you trim your cat’s claws, train him to use scratching surfaces, supervise him with your in-laws’ furniture, and get him some prime real estate of his own for use in the main part of the house, you should be able to end your kitty’s isolation and keep him from scratching the expensive leather furniture.
Bella: Good luck to you!
Tara: What about you other readers? How have you trained your cats to scratch on appropriate surfaces?
JaneA Kelley is a punk rock cat mom and award-winning blogger. She is a regular columnist for Catster Magazine, and she and the Paws and Effect Gang share a home in the beautiful Pacific Northwest.
cats are very intelligent creatures,
when i first got the twins, they were allowed to scratch the settee as it was an old and scruffy one anyway so i didnt think twice ((i was a kitten novice lol)) but when i got my new suede settee set, i didnt want them ruining it, so at first, i distracted them with a toy whenever they’d start, but they soon got wise to me and turned it to their advantage -they would pretend to start scratching when they wanted me to play with them and stop as soon as i picked up their toy !!). after that, i didnt bother with the toy and instead, said ‘no nails’ to them and patted their paws (as if you were talking to a child) after a while, they stopped and used their scratching posts more (i had a few in different rooms) now they have a great big 2m sisal post cat tree with different levels and they both love it :D
i believe you can get ‘stay away’ type spray that you can spray on furniture and the cats dont like the smell
also… try putting covers/ throws on the settees
Good luck
Jen
Ps/
DONT DECLAW !! it is the same as chopping half your fingers and toes off
Distraction is another great idea, Jen. Thank you so much for sharing that advice. Purrs to you!
You’re very welcome
Prrrrrr
You are right, those Armarkat cat trees are the best! I like Jen’s idea of covers for the furniture. When guests come over, you can easily remove them.
Please NEVER declaw — it is too cruel and you will likely end up with MORE problems with your kitty than now. And more expensive ones. Declawed kitties often end up with physical problems that cost vet visits, require medication and create psychological problems that a pet parent might want to pay for if only such a solution might be available though money. MUST-SEE: “The Paw Project” on Youtube. You will learn a lot about declawing and, I’m guessing by how much you seem to love your kitty, never be able to consider declawing as an answer to anything.
Teaching your kitty not to scratch on tempting vertical surfaces, like furniture corners, takes time and patience and CONSISTENCY.
1) provide a variety of approved scratching surfaces in each room where your kitty hangs out. there are many forms of scratchers available. They don’t all have to be expensive, but my experience is that investing in quality lasts longer and is more likely to actually satisfy your kitty’s needs instead of just being a low-cost purchase for the human. Lesser quality may mean buying more and you will not be further ahead.
2) make sure that you have a GOOD vertical scratcher. What “good” means here is a scratcher that allows your kitty to FULLY extend vertically and does not move. This activity not only helps keep nails and toes in good shape, it allows kitty to stretch out those strong back and leg muscles that she uses to run and leap and climb. And overall, it just feels good. For example, the Ultimate Scratching Post. Key features: about 32″ high, a great sisal scratching surface (cats love sisal) and it WEIGHS 16 LBS… This is important as a flimsy scratcher will move and kitty will be scared and unsatisfied and find that lovely, tall, heavy sofa arm so much better… Lesson: it is worth the expense to invest in quality scratchers. They may seem like a lot at first, but they last a long time and save so much heartache. Do some on-line research and you can find this, or similar scratchers, for a good price. I found the Ultimate Cat Scratcher at Bed, Bath and Beyond at the best price –never expected to find a scratcher there. Don’t know if they still sell it, but the message is that a bit of a search can reveal some good prices (more so in USA than in Canada).
3) I put double-sided tape on the furniture edges while kitty was in training. you don’t have to buy the more expensive special cat double-sided tape. Hardware or stationery shops carry such tape at lower prices. Kitties don’t like the sticky surface, rendering the furniture less attractive.
4) there are also some sprays that are unattractive to kitty. You can buy or find on-line recipes. Caveat: these are not the strongest repellent so don’t expect to spray and walk away. It can’t work on its own. It is part of the larger strategy and YOU have to be involved and consistent and not give up. If you choose to make such a spray part of your strategy, whatever it is, be sure to test it in an inconspicuous area of the furniture to make sure that it doesn’t stain or otherwise damage the surface of the fabric.
5) Now that you have your arsenal in place as well as the desired scratching surfaces, both vertical and horizontal, where kitty IS ALLOWED TO scratch, you prepare the ultimate weapon: the soda can. I found this to be the greatest thing for my kitty, though I can’t guarantee that it will be the best for all other kitties. I took an empty soda can and put some coins in it. It makes a noise that my kitty really does NOT like. Your kitty stays in her assigned room until you are home and ready to SUPERVISE her. She comes into the shared living space with the family, but you watch her every move. By studying her, you can see what attracts her and what body movements show that she is going to scratch. Then, just as she gets herself in position to scratch in the wrong place, you shake the can. The noise is unpleasant for cats with their sensitive hearing and its sharpness and loudness shakes kitty off her plan for scratching. So, what seemed such a lovely place for a good scratch, is now associated with an unpleasant sound. (I’ve used this to keep kitty off the screen door, too.) However, that sisal scratching post just next to the sofa, why, when kitty scratches on it, there is no awful sound. So, the post becomes more attractive than the sofa. What I also like about the can is that it is a no-touch technique. Some people suggest squirting kitty with water. But that actually hits her and gets her wet and she runs away (away from the scratching post you want her to find and use) and now she has to concentrate on getting her self dry instead of finding another, the desired, scratching surface. The learning moment is lost. (Also, for me, the water just seems a little cruel and kitty will see it coming from me and associate the bad things with ME, not necessarily the do-not-scratch surface. You can shake the can without kitty seeing where it is happening.) Another good thing about the can is that it is a cheap and plentiful tool. You can have a number of cans around, one in every room, if need be, during the training period. So, now we have kitty on the search for some surface that will not make an awful noise when she scratches on it. We come to 6).
6) MUST happen to seal the deal — 6) is the POSITIVE reinforcement. When kitty does scratch on that scratcher, not only are you telling her “good kitty” “good girl” “yes, little girl” in an encouraging and comforting and loving tone that makes kitty feel good, you also REWARD her in another way — a healthy treat. She now has aural AND physical reinforcement — look at all the good things that happen when I scratch over here! This is great! this is the place to scratch! NOTE: I read that kitties can only make an association for about 2 min. So, have treats ready. It is not clear, if kitty uses her scratcher and you come back 5 min later with a treat, that she will associate it with her use of the scratcher.
7) Consistency: this will not happen overnight. It will take months. Kitty has to make new associations: sofa = bad noise, but scratcher = Daddy is happy and I get treats. You need to get the rest of your family in on the training as much as possible so that kitty gets the same, consistent message on what are the desired and the non-desired behaviours. When I was using the can for training, even the sight of it became enough for my kitty to cease and desist what she was doing.
We have to keep communicating with our kitties and teaching them what proper social behaviour is for us, our expectations of her. Expensive, but fast to declaw and maim a kitty for life (and then the “fast” solution is no longer fast, but unending complications). Cheap in money, but costly in time to show real love and respect for our kitties, taking the time to teach them what we need from them, while respecting their physical and psychological need to stretch and scratch. Like with our children, one of the greatest gifts we can give our kitties is our time.
8) Don’t think that having one scratcher in one room at the other end of the house will do it. You will need a number of scratchers as kitty does not think like us to make the trek over to the other room when the urge comes on. Key place, though, according to the description of your situation, is to have a good scratcher near your parents’ furniture.
I have a thick, fleece (cat-themed no less!) baby blanket from Costco. That is kitty’s blanket and she can do what she wants on it even if it does get pulls on it from claws. My kitty knows that that is her spot and we even take it traveling. It goes on the bed with me and she knows to come there and she does her nighttime “kneading” on it. That also helps her get the “scratching need” satisfied. The more i can get her to scratch where I want, the less will be her need to scratch elsewhere.
And, of course, you must learn to clip kitty’s claws. Really not a big deal. Again, get yourself a GOOD QUALITY pair of clippers (I like the scissor-like ones). They only cost about $9, I think — you want a good cutting metal. I could get into how to clip, but that’s another story. As with all things with cats, it is a PROCESS. Time, repetition and POSiTIVE REINFORCEMENT. You don’t have to clip all the claws at once. Do it over a few days. With time, kitty will get used to it and be patient longer.
This reminds me — please let your family know that yelling and negativity does not work with cats. Cats only learn to fear and then you can’t work with them, they don’t trust. Do POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT as much as possible. Break that thought of scratching in the wrong place then lather on the positive reinforcement when they do what is desired.
A cat tree is wonderful — I got a very good one on sale on Amazon for about $90 CAD. Get a HIGH cat tree, about 6 feet tall, that responds to kitty’s need for a sense of safety and it gives her a place to be in your living area (while you watch movies, she is ensconced in her tree nest) and often trees have more scratching surfaces). Cats like to be high to oversee what is happening.
And do play with your kitty. She might scratch less if she is entertained by playing instead of scratching.
Finally, there is a lot of info on the internet on how to get a cat to not scratch furniture. I’m glad that the info is there, but I think that even better would be to REFRAME the issue to “How to teach kitty where to scratch”. Kitty is not so different from a child, only that it takes longer for her to learn since she doesn’t have a human brain.
Oh, here’s another “finally”: some great books out there about understanding your kitty’s physical and psychological needs. Books that have taught me a lot: Outsmarting Cats, How to persuade the Felines in Your Life to Do What You Want; The Natural Cat, The Comprehensive Guide to Optimal Care. Understanding how your cat “ticks” means you will be better able to understand her needs, communicate with her, understand what she is trying to say to you, and, yes, to get her to do what you want.
I hope that this is helpful. It was pretty intense when I was training my kitty, but after it was done, life moved on and I forgot about that period. It is only when something like this blog entry comes up that I remember how we went through that period of training together. So, stick with it. Again, like a child, you invest time now, but you reap the benefits ever after.
Good luck, Mark!
Please NEVER declaw — it is too cruel and you will likely end up with MORE problems with your kitty than now. And more expensive ones. Declawed kitties often end up with physical problems that cost vet visits, require medication and create psychological problems that a pet parent might want to pay for if only such a solution might be available though money. MUST-SEE: “The Paw Project” on Youtube. You will learn a lot about declawing and, I’m guessing by how much you seem to love your kitty, never be able to consider declawing as an answer to anything.
Teaching your kitty not to scratch on tempting vertical surfaces, like furniture corners, takes time and patience and CONSISTENCY.
1) provide a variety of approved scratching surfaces in each room where your kitty hangs out. there are many forms of scratchers available. They don’t all have to be expensive, but my experience is that investing in quality lasts longer and is more likely to actually satisfy your kitty’s needs instead of just being a low-cost purchase for the human. Lesser quality may mean buying more and you will not be further ahead.
2) make sure that you have a GOOD vertical scratcher. What “good” means here is a scratcher that allows your kitty to FULLY extend vertically and does not move. This activity not only helps keep nails and toes in good shape, it allows kitty to stretch out those strong back and leg muscles that she uses to run and leap and climb. And overall, it just feels good. For example, the Ultimate Scratching Post. Key features: about 32″ high, a great sisal scratching surface (cats love sisal) and it WEIGHS 16 LBS… This is important as a flimsy scratcher will move and kitty will be scared and unsatisfied and find that lovely, tall, heavy sofa arm so much better… Lesson: it is worth the expense to invest in quality scratchers. They may seem like a lot at first, but they last a long time and save so much heartache. Do some on-line research and you can find this, or similar scratchers, for a good price. I found the Ultimate Cat Scratcher at Bed, Bath and Beyond at the best price –never expected to find a scratcher there. Don’t know if they still sell it, but the message is that a bit of a search can reveal some good prices (more so in USA than in Canada).
3) I put double-sided tape on the furniture edges while kitty was in training. you don’t have to buy the more expensive special cat double-sided tape. Hardware or stationery shops carry such tape at lower prices. Kitties don’t like the sticky surface, rendering the furniture less attractive.
4) there are also some sprays that are unattractive to kitty. You can buy or find on-line recipes. Caveat: these are not the strongest repellent so don’t expect to spray and walk away. It can’t work on its own. It is part of the larger strategy and YOU have to be involved and consistent and not give up. If you choose to make such a spray part of your strategy, whatever it is, be sure to test it in an inconspicuous area of the furniture to make sure that it doesn’t stain or otherwise damage the surface of the fabric.
5) Now that you have your arsenal in place as well as the desired scratching surfaces, both vertical and horizontal, where kitty IS ALLOWED TO scratch, you prepare the ultimate weapon: the soda can. I found this to be the greatest thing for my kitty, though I can’t guarantee that it will be the best for all other kitties. I took an empty soda can and put some coins in it. It makes a noise that my kitty really does NOT like. Your kitty stays in her assigned room until you are home and ready to SUPERVISE her. She comes into the shared living space with the family, but you watch her every move. By studying her, you can see what attracts her and what body movements show that she is going to scratch. Then, just as she gets herself in position to scratch in the wrong place, you shake the can. The noise is unpleasant for cats with their sensitive hearing and its sharpness and loudness shakes kitty off her plan for scratching. So, what seemed such a lovely place for a good scratch, is now associated with an unpleasant sound. (I’ve used this to keep kitty off the screen door, too.) However, that sisal scratching post just next to the sofa, why, when kitty scratches on it, there is no awful sound. So, the post becomes more attractive than the sofa. What I also like about the can is that it is a no-touch technique. Some people suggest squirting kitty with water. But that actually hits her and gets her wet and she runs away (away from the scratching post you want her to find and use) and now she has to concentrate on getting her self dry instead of finding another, the desired, scratching surface. The learning moment is lost. (Also, for me, the water just seems a little cruel and kitty will see it coming from me and associate the bad things with ME, not necessarily the do-not-scratch surface. You can shake the can without kitty seeing where it is happening.) Another good thing about the can is that it is a cheap and plentiful tool. You can have a number of cans around, one in every room, if need be, during the training period. So, now we have kitty on the search for some surface that will not make an awful noise when she scratches on it. We come to 6).
6) MUST happen to seal the deal — 6) is the POSITIVE reinforcement. When kitty does scratch on that scratcher, not only are you telling her “good kitty” “good girl” “yes, little girl” in an encouraging and comforting and loving tone that makes kitty feel good, you also REWARD her in another way — a healthy treat. She now has aural AND physical reinforcement — look at all the good things that happen when I scratch over here! This is great! this is the place to scratch! NOTE: I read that kitties can only make an association for about 2 min. So, have treats ready. It is not clear, if kitty uses her scratcher and you come back 5 min later with a treat, that she will associate it with her use of the scratcher.
7) Consistency: this will not happen overnight. It will take months. Kitty has to make new associations: sofa = bad noise, but scratcher = Daddy is happy and I get treats. You need to get the rest of your family in on the training as much as possible so that kitty gets the same, consistent message on what are the desired and the non-desired behaviours. When I was using the can for training, even the sight of it became enough for my kitty to cease and desist what she was doing.
We have to keep communicating with our kitties and teaching them what proper social behaviour is for us, our expectations of her. Expensive, but fast to declaw and maim a kitty for life (and then the “fast” solution is no longer fast, but unending complications). Cheap in money, but costly in time to show real love and respect for our kitties, taking the time to teach them what we need from them, while respecting their physical and psychological need to stretch and scratch. Like with our children, one of the greatest gifts we can give our kitties is our time.
8) Don’t think that having one scratcher in one room at the other end of the house will do it. You will need a number of scratchers as kitty does not think like us to make the trek over to the other room when the urge comes on. Key place, though, according to the description of your situation, is to have a good scratcher near your parents’ furniture.
I have a thick, fleece (cat-themed no less!) baby blanket from Costco. That is kitty’s blanket and she can do what she wants on it even if it does get pulls on it from claws. My kitty knows that that is her spot and we even take it traveling. It goes on the bed with me and she knows to come there and she does her nighttime “kneading” on it. That also helps her get the “scratching need” satisfied. The more i can get her to scratch where I want, the less will be her need to scratch elsewhere.
And, of course, you must learn to clip kitty’s claws. Really not a big deal. Again, get yourself a GOOD QUALITY pair of clippers (I like the scissor-like ones). They only cost about $9, I think — you want a good cutting metal. I could get into how to clip, but that’s another story. As with all things with cats, it is a PROCESS. Time, repetition and POSiTIVE REINFORCEMENT. You don’t have to clip all the claws at once. Do it over a few days. With time, kitty will get used to it and be patient longer.
This reminds me — please let your family know that yelling and negativity does not work with cats. Cats only learn to fear and then you can’t work with them, they don’t trust. Do POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT as much as possible. Break that thought of scratching in the wrong place then lather on the positive reinforcement when they do what is desired.
A cat tree is wonderful — I got a very good one on sale on Amazon for about $90 CAD. Get a HIGH cat tree, about 6 feet tall, that responds to kitty’s need for a sense of safety and it gives her a place to be in your living area (while you watch movies, she is ensconced in her tree nest) and often trees have more scratching surfaces). Cats like to be high to oversee what is happening.
And do play with your kitty. She might scratch less if she is entertained by playing instead of scratching.
Finally, there is a lot of info on the internet on how to get a cat to not scratch furniture. I’m glad that the info is there, but I think that even better would be to REFRAME the issue to “How to teach kitty where to scratch”. Kitty is not so different from a child, only that it takes longer for her to learn since she doesn’t have a human brain.
Oh, here’s another “finally”: some great books out there about understanding your kitty’s physical and psychological needs. Books that have taught me a lot: Outsmarting Cats, How to persuade the Felines in Your Life to Do What You Want; The Natural Cat, The Comprehensive Guide to Optimal Care. Understanding how your cat “ticks” means you will be better able to understand her needs, communicate with her, understand what she is trying to say to you, and, yes, to get her to do what you want.
I hope that this is helpful. It was pretty intense when I was training my kitty, but after it was done, life moved on and I forgot about that period. It is only when something like this blog entry comes up that I remember how we went through that period of training together. So, stick with it. Again, like a child, you invest time now, but you reap the benefits ever after.
Good luck, Mark!
Thank you, Chipmunk. You’ve certainly said a lot, and it’s all VERY good advice!
This worked for us! Our cats totally destroyed our furniture but no way would we declaw. We got double-sided tape (they have sheets especially for cats – http://www.stickypaws.com, but any double-sided tape will work). We put it on all the places they like to scratch and IT WORKED! After a month or so, they stopped trying to scratch the furniture and rugs, and we no longer have to use it. We haven’t had a problem since – they only scratch their sisal polls. Highly recommended!!!!